Rick Steves Athens & The Heart of Greece
Μυστράς
Mystras to Nafplio Day 9
Four miles west of Sparta, on the slopes of the Taygetos Mountains in southern Greece, lay the ruins of Mystras, the most important Byzantine site in Greece. From 1249 - 1460 AD, Mystras blossomed, growing in importance and becoming the intellectual and cultural center during the later years of the Byzantine Empire, under the Pailaiologos family.
When Constantinople fell to the Ottomans in 1453, the Byzantine emperors retreated to this well-fortified city; but in 1460 the city finally surrendered to the Turks. King Otto came into power after the Greek War of Independence, and dissolved the Orthodox monasteries, shutting down Mystras. Stone from Mystras was used to build the modern city of Sparta (Otto's dream to make Sparta and Athens his shining new Greece)..
(Hover on photos for description or click on photos to enlarge)
We were literally walking through history, the 13th and 14th centuries laid out before us as we walked downhill. Following a path from the Central Gate, we toured the churches of Saint Sophia, Saint Nikolas and Saint Demetrios. Many frescoes remain, though in delicate condition. Our guide, George, told us many interesting facts about the churches and the frescoes; it was all so interesting and made me realize how much I didn't know about Greece!
Although most of Mystras is an archaeological site, there is still one small part that is still active and it's the Church of Pantanassa, built in 1428. It is home to 6 nuns, who tend to the flower gardens and sell embroidered linens in their small shop.
Before we arrived at the Church of Pantanassa, we came upon a mule on the hillside. George told us that this was Persa, the 7th nun. (I sure hope the nuns have a sense of humor!)
It's all so very Greek!
What has yellow flowers, grows 3-4 meters tall, has a stem that is light and stiff, and can be used as a small carrying case, immobilizing broken bones or making a torch?
In Greek, the name of the plant is Narthex (aka Giant Fennel) and here in Mystras it's everywhere!
After the plant flowers, the stem dries up but remains upright, the inner pulp dries and hardens and, once lit, can hold fire embers for long periods of time.
In Greek mythology, Prometheus used a narthex stem for carrying the fire he secretly stole from the gods to give to humans. Dionysus carried a thyrsus (staff) made of Narthex. Since they made good walking sticks but couldn't hurt anyone, Dionysus ordered those who drank wine to carry sticks made of narthex. (Being the god of wine, he would know what drinking too much wine could do to your balance!)
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Palace of the Despots
One other interesting thing to share - the Greek word for wild fennel is μάραθο (maratho). The city we are familiar with in Greece called Marathon (and the 26.2 mile run) was named for the fields of fennel that grew in the meadow!
This is Sparta!!!
Being a Spartan at Michigan State University, I was happy that the tour made a quick stop in Sparta for lunch. Although we didn't visit the ancient site of Sparta, it did give me an opportunity to snap a picture with Leonidas himself!
There are those famous words ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ inscribed on the base of the pedestal (meaning come and take them), Leonidas' reply when Xerxes told the Spartans to put down their weapons.
The shield, displaying the Greek 'lambda' symbol, had a double grip, one for the hand at the edge and the forearm strapped to it in the center. That famous line by the wives and mothers “Come home with your shield or on it” as their men went out to battle.
Apostolos topped off the whole experience with a delicious pastry called a Kokaki
It was the perfect finish to our lunch stop here in Sparta!
Nafplio
Our bus wound its way down through the mountains and past large orchards as we made our way to Nafplio, our home for two nights. We are staying at the Hotel Marianna, on the hill above the Old Town; it's run by 3 brothers who are there to greet us as we get off the bus. They are all so energetic as they run our luggage down to the hotel!
We take a peek at our room and then head up to the patio to enjoy a fresh glass of lemonade (the brothers have an organic farm in the valley near Nafplio). The view from the patio is spectacular! We can see the entire Old Town of Nafplio, as well as the Palamidi Fortress. The wall of the Akronafplia Fortress is just behind the hotel.
Tonight we were being treated to a Wine and Ouzo tasting! Apostolos gave us a tour of old town Nafplio as we made our way to the Karonis wine store. SO many twisty little streets and stair ways as we made our way down to town; some of us decided to follow Apostolos back to the hotel just so we wouldn't get lost finding our hotel, though it really wasn't too difficult...
The lights around the city were just starting to come on as we made it back to the hotel. We could see the Venetian fortress called Bourtzi, on a little island just offshore. Behind us the Palamidi Fortress had a light glow, and the tower behind our hotel just added to the magical feeling of the night.
As the evening progressed, we decided we were hungry; but didn't really want to go back out in the dark! Trying to figure out what to do for dinner, we ran into Apostolos on the patio; he was about to order food to be delivered. Of course!!! Delivery to the hotel, why not? Something we would normally do at home, and most likely, what people here in Naflpio do as well! Oh, it's so good just to be normal on vacation....
